The Palmatumstag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008-07-04://12008-09-04T08:36:36ZJapanese Maples De-mystified.Movable Type Personal 4.12Hydroleca Againtag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.202008-09-04T08:22:30Z2008-09-04T08:36:36ZWhat job that turned out to be!Getting hold of this stuff locally is impossible. The local garden centres, diy outlets, nurseries do not stock the stuff. Quite why is beyond me as they have almost everything else you could imagine.So...Mr Moriko
Getting hold of this stuff locally is impossible. The local garden centres, diy outlets, nurseries do not stock the stuff. Quite why is beyond me as they have almost everything else you could imagine. So I had to fall back onto the Internet ]]>
However the price they were asking plus delivery was more than I was willing to pay.
So I expanded the search to Hydroleca which is what the manufacturers call it and this brought me into contact with the hydroponics industry and its suppliers. They had the product much better priced but the delivery charges were over the top as they are clearly aiming at businesses not individuals despite being clued up on e-commerce.
So I went backed to basics and typed "expanded clay pellets" into Google and thankfully found a London based garden centre site who clearly act as agents for another company but as they deal with retail not wholesale their delivery charges are reasonable. I have two bags on their way to me as I write and hopefully the bags will reveal who the supplier is I will then be able to deal direct with them.
The moral of the story is that just because a local nursery/garden centre/supplier doesn't have what you require do not jump straight onto the internet and salve your problem by buying from the first company you find. Use the first company's prices as the base and spend ten minutes or so finding out if there is a better offer out there. A lot of the stuff that is required to cultivate Japanese Maples successfully are basic products so remember as a marketer once said "Aspirin is Aspirin so always buy Aspirin"! ]]>
Hyroleca, Expanded Clay Updatetag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.192008-08-30T05:29:31Z2008-08-30T05:49:03ZLast night I spent an hour or so tracking down a supply of Hydroleca or expanded clay granules to use in my next round of repotting my Japanese Maples. Those of you who read this blog regularly will realise there...Mr Moriko
Those of you who read this blog regularly will realise there is nothing scientific in this. I am just trying to find out what is the best compost to use for potted Japanese Maples to thrive in. ]]>
Japanese Maples planted in the ground do grow best when natural conditions are recreated however no plant growing in any pot is natural in any way shape or form. Up to date I have been using a mixture of the compost the tree came in, usually a peat based formulation that dries out without constant attention, and a mixture of gravel/expanded clay coir and worn out John Innes.
This unlikely mixture has not given me any problems and all the trees are healthy but I still feel there is a better solution. I have a Japanese Maple forest, not a literal one a bonsai version, in my possession that consists of eight or nine trees that grows very happily in just two inches of coir and expanded clay. Admittedly this tree warrants much closer attention to watering than any other of my Japanese Maples but the fact remains that the coir and expanded clay do a remarkable job of providing the right grwoing conditions.
So I am scaling this up to move a selection of young (under five years old) Japanese Maples and some very young (two year old) Japanese Maples into a mix of coir and expanded clay. The oly other addition will be trace element frits and humates.
The two year olds will have their roots washed clean of their curent grwoing medium, pure Coir whilst I could do the same with the five year olds I won't because most people who buy a tree from a nursery or garden centre would never do this so to make the realistic instead of pseudo scientific I will just pot these Japanese Maples on but use the new mix as the grwoing medium in the larger pot. As a "control" as the scientists call it I will move another tree or two on in the same way I have been using to date.
I'll come back with a further update once the trees are ready to have their roots washed as I think this will be something worth talking about and if I or a good friend can work out how to get a video of this procedure done and on the web you will be able to see moving pictures! ]]>
My Japanese Maple Shoot Tips Are Stuck Together. Why?tag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.182008-08-21T07:10:42Z2008-08-21T07:26:21ZThe reason why the shoot tips are stuck together is that there are tiny little grubs inside the ball of leaves that have stuck them together to protect themselves from birds such as blue tits and also wasps who spend...Mr Moriko
The reason why the shoot tips are stuck together is that there are tiny little grubs inside the ball of leaves that have stuck them together to protect themselves from birds such as blue tits and also wasps who spend most of their year searching out caterpillars and grubs to feed to their young.
I digress, sorry. The caterpillars or grubs that are rolling up your shoot tips do little real harm to the tree. They only eat a few bits of the leaves they roll up and soon pupate and fly off never to be seen again. With that said they do disfigure the tree so the best solution is when you find a shoot afflicted with a caterpillar gently squeeze it between your fingers and then pull the shoot gently apart. Don't try and separate the individual leaves as at this time of year, August, there is little point. Earlier in the season it is worth spending five minutes freeing the leaves of silk so they can carry on working.
Obviously you will not see these shoot "infestations" going on if your tree is planted in your garden and its shoots are above your eye height so don't stress out thinking your tree needs protection. It drops its leaves in the next couple of months. However if the Japanese Maple is potted or is a low growing variety that is planted out then by all means remove the pests by the squeeze method.
Incidentally the normal escape response of these caterpillars is to drop from their leafy home and hang on a silk thread. So any caterpillars you see doing this trick on your maple must be disposed of on sight or else they will simply crawl back up into the leafy canopy and build another leafy shoot home. ]]>
The Weathertag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.172008-08-15T08:10:20Z2008-08-15T08:26:51ZI happened upon a pair of plain, sorry that word does not apply to any Japanese Maple. I'll start again.I came upon a pair of green Japanese Maples either side of a gateway in a walled garden in Castle Kennedy...Mr Moriko I came upon a pair of green Japanese Maples either side of a gateway in a walled garden in Castle Kennedy just outside of Stranraer in South West Scotland. I was actually there to see some very fine Paper Bark Maples but more of that later. ]]>
When I saw the pair of green maples in the walled garden I was astonished to see that almost every leaf possessed a paper coloured withered end to them. All around the walled garden was bursting with life. My wife stopped by two beds of massed perennials alive with bees, wasps, flies, hoverflies and was almost lulled into sleep by the music these massed insects were making as they went about their daily lives.
So clearly there was sufficient moisture in the ground so the crispy leaves looked out of place. Underneath each tree were very healthy osmundias and other green ferns. They showed no sign of drought which suggested the two maples also had access to sufficient moisture. On futher investiugation the cause revealed itself.
It was only the older leaves, those which appeared in spring which actually had crispy edges. The newer leaves, which had only been open a couple of weeks, were as fresh as daisies without a mark on them. The older ones were in the majority and they gave an overall impression of stress.
What had happened is that before the first flush of leaves had hardened off sufficiently there had been a few days of strong cold winds and low night time temperatures and these had been enough to disfigure the emerging growth. It pays to be vigilant and diligent in understanding what is going on with Maples.
As for the Paper Bark maples. I never got to see them because the sunken garden they inhabit was closed for maintenance!
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Acer Palmatum Bloodgoodtag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.162008-07-31T08:22:26Z2008-07-31T09:33:26ZI'll give the first of an occasional series of cultivar profiles here today. There are an ever changing number of cultivars in the trade. Many of these are only available in small quantities and in only in some countries.Bloodgood is...Mr Moriko Bloodgood is one that is universally available. ]]>
It is best described as having a deep red almost plum colour to its leaves that lasts well into late summer and does not "turn to bronze" as many other red leaved cultivars do. It can "burn" in extreme hot sun but here in the UK such an "event" is rare enough to make it newsworthy. There is no need to "protect" Bloodgood from the strongest UK sun.
The leaves themselves can get as big as four inches, 100 mm across although 3 inches, 75 mm is more normal. The leaf shape is palmate with its lobes dividing about a quarter of the distance away from the leaf base. The undersides of the leaves are usually but not always a shiny dark green. When the tree is planted in such a position that allows the sun to shine through the leaves the effect of the red coming through and overwhelming the green is reason enough to grow this cultivar. Morning and evening sun gives the most drama.
The autumnal show is one of bright crimson and although it does vary year to year depending on how the seasons have been Bloodgood does its level best to produce a consistent display year in year out. It is worth growing just for the combination of its bright red winged seed cases with its deep red leaves if nothing else. The seeds hang underneath the branches like clusters of red jewels especially when the evening sun catches them.
As it is a strong grower it is capable of creating a small tree some 30 feet, 10 m tall with a broad crown which is approximately equal to its height. You can find Bloodgood growing on its own roots or it can be grafted. Either way you will get a strong growing tree that performs superbly in all seasons and is the tree that seduces more people into growing Japanese Maples than just about any other. Just make sure you plant it where it can grow to its full splendour and show off to it's hearts content. It Can be grown in containers although it will never be truly happy so why battle a tree that simply wants to grow as big as it can as quick as it can? Plant it in the ground and you won't be disappointed.
I will include some pictures at a later date once I have secured permission from the copyright owners in the meantime just do a Google image search to see this beautiful tree in every season.
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My Bloodgood Now Has A Massive Green Shoot... Help!tag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.152008-07-28T10:16:24Z2008-07-28T10:44:32ZAs the majority of Maple cultivars are grafted plants, simply because it is the only way to guarantee the consistency of the type, there will always be the potential for the understock of the graft to sprout forth and try...Mr Moriko
As the majority of Maple cultivars are grafted plants, simply because it is the only way to guarantee the consistency of the type, there will always be the potential for the understock of the graft to sprout forth and try and take over.
The cultivar is grafted on to plain simple and sturdy seed raised acer palmatum for good reason. The Japanese Maple cultivars all come from the "plain" green plant. This means they can "bond" easily and very successfully. As the green rootstock is vigorous and has a zest for life it transfers its powers into the graft and you get strong maple cultivar. Think of the understock as the engine and the cultivar as the "paint job" and you will understand how grafting works,
The trouble is that on occasion, especially if the cultivar graft is under some sort of stress from the environment or insect attack, the understock can take matters into its own hands and protect itself by bringing dormant buds to life and you end up with a strong bright green shoot amongst the foliage of the cultivar.
This is just a sign that all is well. If the cultivar is healthy then it has clearly recovered from whatever triggered the green shoot to grow and so the shoot can be removed at source. i.e. right next to the trunk. You will probably never know what it was that put the tree under stress in the first place as all signs of it will have gone.
If the cultivar is unhealthy then you need to take immediate action to find the cause if the problem and deal with it. If it cannot be dealt with and there are very few fatal diseases that afflict maples, then the best solution is to remove the graft as near to the graft union as possible and burn the cultivar to prevent the spread of disease and let the understock get on with life. Yes you will lose a lovely cultivar but you will gain a green Japanese Maple that is also very beautiful in it's own right and you will have a permanent reminder to be vigilant when checking over your Japanese Maples and this is a most useful thing to have. ]]>
I Want To Grow A Japanese Maple But I Don't Know How.tag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.142008-07-23T08:38:18Z2008-07-23T09:09:07ZAt this point most people would say you need to talk to an "expert" or go to the library and read about them or jump on the internet and find out how its done.All reasonable advice but I have a...Mr Moriko
All reasonable advice but I have a far better way that is low cost and low risk which will show you just how easy it is to grow these most marvellous of trees either in the ground or in the pot. ]]>
Now spring is NOT the time to go looking as you will be paying "top dollar" for the trees. Yes they will be fresh and of good quality so are usually worth the expense but remember you are trying to find out if you can successfully grow a Japanese Maple very cheaply.
Instead wait until late summer or early autumn when these big concerns slash the price of their remaining plants by 50% or more just to clear them out. This is the time to go buying from sheds. If you are cheeky enough you can pick up three or four trees and ask for an extra discount because you are buying in bulk. Most store/garden centre managers are not aware of the true value of such trees and will acquiesce.
These trees will look bedraggled and will have "suffered" from continuous movement around the store, under watering, over watering, lack of food and exposure to the elements. Not to mention having their leaves pulled off and twigs broken by inquisitive youngsters. But all that proves that provided the tree is still in good health it is a survivor and is an ideal first purchase to see if you can grow these trees.
You have to check the graft is sound and reject any that look dodgy. I will be posting pictures to guide you once I can work out how to do it. Computers are not really my thing so bear with me. Other than that the only other check you have to do is get hold of the trunk and see if it is loose in the pot. If it is leave the tree and choose another that is solid in the pot. Loose always means either its just been repotted, unlikely in the sheds or large garden centres, or it's roots have been chomped by vine weevils.
Once you get your tree or trees home give them a good watering and remove any damaged or dying twigs and any weeds that may be growing at this time of year. Do not put it in the shade as it prefers full sun. In full sun whatever leaves it has left can continue to function until the autumn leaf fall.
Just live with it in the pot until the autumn. All you have to do is water and feed it. Feed it once a month with a zero nitrogen fertiliser with a composition of 0-10-10 on the label. You do not need to understand the meanings just look for the numbers. Chempak conveniently make a liquid version actually called 0-10-10 but there are whole load of others on the market so just buy one and use it.
The total lack of nitrogen allows the tree to use the fertilizer to harden its new current seasons growth and prepare for winter. As the tree goes into full dormancy in autumn you will have had your first and cheap taste of growing a Japanese Maple. For around a tenner you now have a tree that can easily outlive you and provide you with years of enjoyment and a chemical fertilizer that can be used to great effect on any woody plant in your garden, yard or patio.
In a future post, probably in the autumn, I will go into what you do with tree once it is dormant. ]]>
Question For Youtag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.132008-07-22T15:57:40Z2008-07-22T16:20:54ZMr Moriko What I intend to try is a variation on my current favourite potting combo of coir and hydroleca or Hortag. I will make the compost from 80% Hortag to 20% coir with added trace elements or frits and humates.
If I used 100% Hortag then it would be dried in an instant as the drying wind test I have just done proved. Basically I set up three 1L pots with different mixes. In the first was 100% Hortag, the second had 80-20 Hortag and Coir the third had my normal Hortag/Coir mix (a very rough 50-50 mix) as the control. I know this is a "pseudo scientific" test but it has practical implications and without practicality science is well... just science.
The three pots were watered and allowed to drain and then left on a bench for 48 hours for the current strong north westerly to do its work. The control was unaffected which came as no surprise as I have been using this mixture for some considerable time. What did surprise me was how dry the pure Hortag was. There was so little moisture left the pot almost blew over. The third pot on test was the biggest surprise. It didn't look or feel much different to my control. Yes it was lighter in weight but that would be simply because the Hortag percentage is higher and Hortag is light. However the coir hadn't gone any lighter in colour than the control.
I should point out that coir when wet is a gorgeous chocolate brown and when light is a dull light brown. A superb visual but rough indicator of a pots moisture content in my humble opinion. So this oh so simple test suggests that a tree growing in a mix of 80% Hortag and 20% Coir will grow well even in windy conditions.
I will choose two Japanese Maple seedlings or cuttings as equal as I can get them and pot one up in the control and one in the test mix. I will record the vital stats month by month and take pictures to put up on this blog for you all to see the results. The reason for using young plants is that these have the most vigour and they are the most susceptible to things going wrong.
Oh the question. Have any of you had any experience of growing Japanese Maples in Hortag or hydroleca? If you have please share them by commenting. ]]>
Why Are All Japanese Maple Varities Grafted?tag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.122008-07-20T12:05:45Z2008-07-20T13:31:41ZJapanese Maple varieties do NOT come true from seed. It always galls me when I read that this isn't the case because it is frankly wrong.If these marvellous trees did come true from seed we would have many many more...Mr Moriko
If these marvellous trees did come true from seed we would have many many more cultivars to choose from. ]]>
As with so much in Japanese culture the people quickly realised that there were huge differences in these trees and the only way to stabilise and grow them was by man made or artificial techniques. I like everyone else on the planet hasn't a clue when the grafting techniques were developed except to say it was back in the mists of time but it's a good job they did as without them we wouldn't have the varieties we do today.
There are are various grafting techniques in use today and I'm not going into the mechanics of them here today, but they nearly all involve a donor tree or rootstock which is usually a plain green Japanese maple and a scion or cultivar. There is a technique called air layering by which it is possible to grow a cultivar on its own roots but as grafting is more scalable to mass production air layering tends to stay in the Bonsai world.
The better and more knowledgeable nurseries and grafters try their utmost to colour match the root stock and the cultivars bark. Because each sowing of Japanese Maple seed produces such a wide array of different looking trees this means that with careful selection a skilled grafter can produce a finished tree which after a few years will all but lose the graft lines altogether.
If you are interested in grafting your own plants then by all means have a go. You have nothing to lose. If you get reasonably skilled at grafting then it gives you the "tools" to ensure that old decaying trees can be re-invigorated allowing future generations to enjoy them.
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Why Are There Some Twigs & Branches Dying Off & Going White?tag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.112008-07-16T16:37:12Z2008-07-16T17:29:08ZJapanese Maples practice, perhaps practice is the wrong word, but they constantly adjust their canopy according to how the seasons are progressing. This means that if the tree makes the decision whether to maintain a branch, twig or shoot depending...Mr Moriko
Japanese Maples practice, perhaps practice is the wrong word, but they constantly adjust their canopy according to how the seasons are progressing. This means that if the tree makes the decision whether to maintain a branch, twig or shoot depending on environmental factors and how well its growth rhythm is functioning.
The Japanese Maple in common with most plants have a set of receptors that we humans don't seem to possess. For instance they can measure the light level and there is evidence they know from the day length what season is coming or what season they are experiencing. We tend to move plants around the world with scant regard for these natural processes so it is possible for the tree to "get it wrong" depending on where it is in the world and either leaf out or go into dormancy at the wrong time but when this happens it is our fault not the trees.
The tree is also able to "work out" what food it has been able store and therefore adjust its branch structure accordingly so that it doesn't overstretch itself. Part of this process is giving up some of the twiggy growth which is why you can see the white "dead ends" at any time of year. ]]>
My Japanese Maple Has Set Seed. Can I Sow It?tag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.102008-07-15T06:58:25Z2008-07-15T07:34:31ZMany new maple varieties come into existence because people sow Maple seed. Some Japanese Maples set seed more readily than others.Often times people miss the Maple flowers completely. This comes as no surprise because the Japanese Maple hides its flowers...Mr Moriko Often times people miss the Maple flowers completely. This comes as no surprise because the Japanese Maple hides its flowers away under its leaves and at best they are a greeny yellow so they are easily overlooked. ]]>
Like all seeds of the Acer genus the Japanese Maples come equipped with their very own helicopter blade. The are produced in pairs exactly like the ubiquitous Sycamore seeds which begin falling in June/July most years.
These seeds spin as the fall and where they land is entirely in the hands of the wind when the seeds sever their connection with their parent. Japanese Maples hang onto their seeds for much longer. Often not falling until September or October. Sycamores go for the mass production style of seed dispersal which is why it is called a "pioneer" tree. Forests of tiny seedlings appear in early spring but few make it to maturity.
Japanese Maples take a different route producing much less seed and keep it on the tree longer. When it does fall it doesn't travel that far as Japanese Maples are physically small trees if compared to a Sycamore for example so the seeds do not have as much opportunity to spin on the wind and move well away from their parent.
This makes collecting seed dead easy as it often falls within the canopy boundary. Some trees will hang on to their seeds even after leaf fall. This isn't variety dependant but seems to be more an individual tree and its location which decides to hang on to the seed. The best way to work out if the seed is ripe is to look at the helicopter blade. If it is brown the seed will be ripe whether they are still on the branches or are on the ground.
Collect them up and sow them on the top of a pot of compost or in a prepared seed bed in open ground. This is the point where there are two schools of thought. Some say the helicopter blades should be removed as they may let in fungus and bacteria as they rot down which may take the seed with them. Others say just sow them complete with helicopter blade as it's rotting will make no difference.
I am firmly in the latter camp. The seed itself is wrapped in the same papery material as the helicopter blade is made from so when the blade rots the seed covering goes with it. This cannot harm the seed in my opinion as the seed remains inert until the point of germination which occurs months after seed fall. So any fungus or bacteria that rots the seed covering is long dead by germination time.
I have never seen a better germination rate from "cleaned" seed than "dirty" seed. So clearly there is no benefit in cleaning Maple seed.
The key is to sow the seed straight away. Cover it with grit/compost/or more soil but cover don't bury. Remember also that most Japanese Maple seed in the wild germinates in a bed of leaf litter so if you have any of the wonderful material called leaf mould around incorporate this into the compost/soil mixture as it can only help. If you've a lot of it you can always cover the bed/pot with it but be prepared for the birds to perform the daily task of redistributing the leaf mould in their search for food!
Label the bed/pot with the most garish label you can find. These seeds will germinate over a three year period so it pays dividends not rely on your brain. With that done you simply have to wait until Spring when a proportion of the seeds will germinate. More will appear in year two and another proportion will appear in year three. I have seen seed beds producing a considerable number of seedlings even five years after sowing so it all depends on how much patience you have as to when you finally dismantle the bed or discard the pot.
I will be covering what to do from germination onwards later this year.
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Esvelds.tag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.92008-07-13T17:52:41Z2008-07-13T18:55:39ZIn summer 2007 I came across a Dutch company on the Internet who retail a vast range of plants across Europe. Amongst their range is one of the most comprehensive selections of Japanese Maples I have ever come across. They...Mr Moriko
In summer 2007 I came across a Dutch company on the Internet who retail a vast range of plants across Europe. Amongst their range is one of the most comprehensive selections of Japanese Maples I have ever come across. They offer a range of sizes and best of all they do not ship any trees until the Autumn.
Ordering online was a breeze and I ordered all in 3l pot size except Eimini which had to be ordered as a bare root tree as the 3l size were sold out. I paid by card and Esvelds kept me informed every step of the way. They confirmed dispatch would be in November or early December. In late November the trees arrived in what can only be described as superb packing. There was a double walled cardboard box which held the plants and wooden wool was packed all around them to prevent them moving in the box. Each tree had a coir pot cover over the compost and its pot was wrapped in a strong plastic bag. All that is except Eimini which had its rootball wrapped in burlap and a plastic bag. There was one tree missing.
An e-mail to Esvelds led to an immediate response. Esvelds looked into why the tree was missing and 24 hours later I got another e-mail informing me the missing tree would be with me within the week.
Less than a week later the tree was with me packed in the same solid fashion. Absoultely stunning service and high quality trees what more could you ask for? ]]>
What Guarantee Is There That The Tree Is The One On The Label?tag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.82008-07-12T09:18:47Z2008-07-12T09:43:30ZThe short answer is none. The long answer is none whatsoever!There are two routes for you to go down to get a guarantee that is worth something....Mr Moriko
There are two routes for you to go down to get a guarantee that is worth something. ]]>
Good nurseries buy from growers with their plants labelled by the grower so there is less chance of the trees being misnamed. Neither method is foolproof though which is why you are best becoming your own guarantee.
If you buy the books, use the Internet as an information resource, which is essentially what it is you can very quickly build up a mental knowledge of the characteristics of the individual cultivars. All you need then do is get yourself along to the nearest arboretum or maple collection and test your knowledge on real live plants.
Within very short order you will have more than a basic knowledge of the differences in the cultivars. Ideally you should go back in the depths of winter and view the trees "naked". Not you of course as it's far too cold to expose your flesh to the elements but the trees will be naked in that they have no leaves.
Many cultivars have different growth patterns and these become clear when there are only branches and twigs to contemplate. Of lesser use in guaranteeing the cultivar but a useful skill to develop nonetheless is to study the bark. Often times it is enough to see the striations or patterning on the bark or even the colouration of this years twigs to point you in the right direction in assessing which cultivar is which.
Unlike Snakebark Maples where the bark is the deciding factor in cultivar/species naming in Japanese Maples the bark is just a guide but all things considered it's a fairly accurate one when used in conjunction with growth habit and twig colour.
So my advice is to become your own guarantee and push your knowledge of these marvellous trees onto the next level. It will pay dividends time after time especially when you come across a real naked gem in some winter time plant clearance sale where the garden centre or nursery owner has "lost the label"! ]]>
Do I Need To Water My Potted Maples Even If It Rains?tag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.72008-07-11T09:00:51Z2008-07-11T09:39:30ZThis is a question I get asked all the time often from gardeners who have far more experience or knowledge than I do but the answer is always the same YES!A maple canopy is like any other tree canopy it...Mr Moriko A maple canopy is like any other tree canopy it is a superb umbrella. True some of the rain is channelled down the leaves, leaf stems, twigs, branches, trunks down to the roots but most of it actually runs off away from the tree. ]]>
So in torrential rain like we are experiencing at the present ground growing Maples never run short of water. However their pot grown brethren can quickly run out of water because their canopies shed water over the edge of the pot. There is an interesting statistic that only 10% of rain falling on a house goes into the ground. The rest is channelled away to the sea or rivers. 100% of rain falling on open ground goes into the ground with only 10% draining off the land.
So if you see your potted Maple canopy like a house roof you can see the potential problem if you do not get your umbrella and watering can out and go and make sure the tree is well watered!
Torrential rain or even constant watering leeches the plant food out of any potted plant. Whilst most don't really care about this as they usually find enough rotting leaves.insect corpses etc releasing their nutrients back into the compost Maples can easily fall into starvation. As the pots have a clear route for gravity to work its magic on the water i.e. it enters through the top of the pot and leaves as quickly as it came through the drainage hole at the bottom if the flow though is great enough the water takes with it all the soluble plant foods and some of the insoluble food in suspension.
Just try watering a pot with some Baby Bio or other dark coloured liquid fertilizer and see the colour of the water leaving through the drainage holes. The water leaving is exactly the same or even darker in colour than the water entering the compost.
The trick if it can be called a trick is to half whatever strength the manufacturer recommends and water the liquid fertiliser into the pots after the rain has done its things. There is also a way of buffering this loss by inserting pelleted chicken manure into the compost at regular intervals, every six weeks from leaf break to leaf fall. The pelleted manure is a natural slow release fertilize so ensures the tree always has feed available to it when it decides to grow.
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Do Red Leaved Japanese Maples Need Shade If Growing In A Container?tag:www.thepalmatums.org,2008://1.62008-07-09T16:06:51Z2008-07-09T16:31:42ZAn excellent question and one which produces a whole variety of well intentioned but completely wrong answers. The real secret if there is one to growing maples successfully in containers is getting the compost right from the get go and...Mr Moriko I will be answering the question "What is the right compost for Maples" in a future post but for now just read through this post
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It is often written that the red leaved varieties are more "tender" and their leaves will scorch in our pathetic British sun so therefore need "light shade" to prosper. People follow this unsound advice and discover that there lovely red maple then turns green!
In despair they then believe that they have either been sold a "pup" or they have done something wrong. The reality is that all they have done is follow the wrong advice so here is the correct advice.
Maples need to see the sun to maintain their colouration be it on their leaves or on their twigs. In common with all nearly all plants they also need sunlight to photosynthesise plant foods. So if you put the Maple in the shade it doesn;t get enough sun and two things happen.
Firstly the plant becomes more green than anything else as it tries to manufacture enough food from the lower light levels and secondly the leaves begin to get bigger to increase the available surface are for photosynthesis.
You have to bear in mind that these plants are native to Japan and South east Asia where the lux or sunlight level is far higher than here in the UK. This means that they can easily cope with our insipid British sun provided they have access to the right air/moisture balance.
It isn't the sun that kills or disfigures maples it is the air water imbalance in the pots. The only justification for putting potted maples into the shade temporarily is if they are going to be left unattended for a period of time and the shade should slow evaporation down and give the maple a buffer against drought.
There are far better ways to alleviate drought in potted Maples and I will go into these at a later date as currently our summer is very wet and overcast so all Maples should be able to see the sky!